When to Graft Different Types of Fruit and Nut Trees

If you're going to do something, do it right!

To ensure high success rates when grafting it is important to perform the operation at the correct and appropriate time. The objective is to create a clean and tidy union between the rootstock and the scion (assuming compatible wood types) protected from drying out due to wind and sun and secured from movement.

This must be done when the rootstock is entering a growth phase (breaking dormancy) to heal the graft and produce a strong and enduring union.

My guide for determining the correct timing of the various fruit and nut trees is graft according to their individual flower / fruiting sequence. The following is based on many years of experience grafting these trees in North Canterbury, New Zealand.

A large portion of my grafting consists of top working / adding new varieties to existing mature trees. These types of grafts represent a small portion of the overall tree and are more likely to be rejected or dislodged by wind.

 

Stone fruit - including almond ;)

While it is technically possible to inter / cross / mix graft the various stone fruits I have read and found from direct experience that generally success rate is higher when joining the same type.

I know a lot of commercial stonefruit propagators use Golden Queen peach as a rootstock. I believe this is primarily due to the bulk availability of seed from which to produce rootstock and the size reduction when compared to plum and apricot.

 

Almond, Peach, Nectarine - Early August

These stone fruit are some of the first to blossom and should be grafted earlier rather than later. I have found them to be somewhat tricky with failure rates up to 50%

 

Cherry, Plum, Apricot - Mid to late August

The smaller, smooth stone fruit tend to have higher success rates. With a lot of wild, bird spread trees around here I have had lots of practice and tried more techniques and timing.

 

Pip fruit

Pear - Early to mid September

Pears are in the same family as apples and almost as happily grafted. I generally graft pear onto quince rootstock to reduce the normal vigor of pear. 

 

Apple - Early September - mid October

This is the go to for beginner grafters since apples are so forgiving. They have a wide window for grafting over many weeks and can even be 'green wood grafted' using wood cut and immediately grafted to the host / rootstock.

 

Seasonal variations and other complications such as wind and interference by animals will influence the overall success rate. Spring can be quite windy here and this can dehydrate or dislodge scions as they attempt to heal and grow.

Grafting calendar

There are 2 main activities related to grafting that are season and weather specific.
  1. Collecting desired varieties of scion wood from healthy trees while they are dormant. For deciduous fruit and nut trees this is mid winter or late June to July in New Zealand
  2. Grafting the stored scions onto the appropriate rootstocks in early to mid spring when growth is commencing. Here in North Canterbury this is from early August to to mid October.

Correct timing is only part of the grafting process. Make sure you familiarise yourself with the technique, compatibility and after care for the best results.
  grafting  calendar 
Olmec Sinclair

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Spring grafting season for fruit and nut trees August - October

Spring grafting season for fruit and nut trees August - October

Wood is cut and graded in June for dispatch in July – August. On receipt, scion wood will need to be stored refrigerated until the appropriate local grafting time.

Length: 150 – 170mm with 3 - 4 buds

Diameter: 5 – 12mm


Grafting is the process of adding part of a known, desirable tree onto existing, growing roots of a similar species. This process offers many benefits such as having many types of apple on a single tree or influencing the characteristics of the tree such as size, soil requirements and disease resistance.
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Scion / bud wood for graftingAll about Fruit Tree Grafting

 Related

Rootstock compatibility for different types of tree

Scions of desirable species must be grafted onto a suitable, compatible root system or ultimately the graft with be rejected by the host tree.
The roots determine to size, growth rate and suitable soil conditions for the tree while the scion controls the flowers and fruit type and timing.
Most are only self compatible and so apple must be grafted to apple but as usual there are exceptions such as almonds onto peach.
  grafting 
Olmec Sinclair
Learn more about Grafting Compatibility
Grafting After Care

Grafting After Care

In the weeks and months after completing the graft it is important to check back and follow up with basic care to ensure the graft stays healthy and has the best chance for success.
  • It is usually obvious after a couple of weeks if the graft has failed as it will have dried and shrunken. If the wood looks alive and the buds are full or opening then there is a good chance your graft will take.
  • Remove active growth and buds from below the graft point as this will take energy required by the healing graft.
  • If any of the buds on the freshly grafted wood are blossoms then these should be removed. Just pinch them off carefully with fingernails or clip with secateurs. This allows the branch to focus on healing the union and prevents any breakage caused by heavy fruit. This may be necessary on the following year also, depending on the style and state of the graft.
  • When the graft is part of a larger tree consider periodic pruning or bending down of old wood to encourage development of grafted part(s)
  • After several months check grafting tape / bindings are not strangling / girdling the healing graft. Some tapes are biodegradable and will split or peel after exposure to summer sun, others require manual splitting with a sharp blade to release the pressure.
  • Excessive sun and wind exposure can dessicate or dislodge grafts. If your rootstock is in a pot keep it in a sheltered location until the union is solid. A high humidity environment is ideal.

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